Both sides are wrong. Not necessarily equally wrong but each side has been wrong numerous times.

Beyond the Palestine/Israel conflict there is a more fundamental thing. Anti-modernity and a belief that living according to Islamic law is a higher calling. This set of beliefs is diametrically opposed to the enlightenment that you mentioned.

The enlightenment is real. It is the very thing that makes this conflict so difficult. You see, 10,000 years ago this would have been quickly resolved by one side totally destroying the other, salting the earth and putting a curse on the site.

My dominant optimism tells me that this is a bump in the road and we will resolve this matter in a short time (historically speaking) and resume our noble journey.